Merida..Cooking, Adventuring, and Lots and Lots of Walking in the Land of the Myans.

90,000 steps in 5 days. That might be weeks worth of walking for most Americans, but it’s just the way we like to explore the Yucatan’s capital city, Merida.

Some people love vacationing on the beaches of Florida, others enjoy the forested mountains around Gatlinburg….we love Merida, Mexico. This year marks Heather’s 5th trip, and my 3rd trip south of the Tropic of Cancer, to our favorite place to recharge after the holiday rush.

While the Hoosier heartland, and currently (circa January 2025) the rest of the United States (Florida, Texas, Louisiana included) are blanketed in snow and sub-zero temperatures, Merida is in the mid 80s and sunny, with light breezes blowing off the Gulf of Mexico….or is that now the Gulf of America.

Merida was founded in 1542 by Francisco de Montego on the cite of the Mayan city of T’ho. The city came to world wide prominence in the 19th century when it was the center of henequen production. Henequen, a strong fibrous plant, was the used to make most off the world’s rope until the discovery of nylon in 1935. During these boom years Merida had the most millionaires of any city, worldwide.

Following nylons invention Merida went into a period of steep economic decline, and it was largely abandoned by interests from Western Europe and the United States. Today, Merida is back. It’s home to major universities, a growing tech sector, and an advanced network of healthcare providers. And while some might be quick to think of Mexico as “dangerous,” Merida is one of the safest cities in the world.

With our history lesson behind us, let me tell you a bit about this year’s adventures.

Is she looking at my meet?

If I could choose a secret hero identity, it would be that of Captian Polyglot. I would roam the earth speaking a mulitude of languages and local dialects with grace and ease, but in the real world I’m quite shit at English, let alone any foreign tongues. With my “buesas dias” getting mixed up with the Ploish “dzien dobry,” Heather has been the lynch pin to this trip being as amazing as it has been. Her years of Español have proved themselves invaluable for everything from shopping in the local produce markets, to ensuring that we nail our drink orders for the best margaritas and mojoits that La Negrita serves. Without her I’d just being mumbling and pointing at pictures on menus, with her the cultural awesomeness that is Merida is unlocked.

Our homebase for this year’s trip, as it has been each and every year we’ve visited, is the Via Merida. Run by the amazing Baptiste and his exceptional staff, this 19th century colonial mansion, with its 8 guest rooms, is an oasis from the bustling city around us. 

We’ve enjoyed watching the space transform each year while we are away – the start of a new gym above the kitchen, a heater for the pool, a pool table in the lounge – this year’s additions have only added to our enjoyment of the Villa.

We’ve also enjoyed extending our realm of experience a little further each trip. Although El Cardinal is still a favorite, we discovered La Negrita this year and it felt like home from the first round of drinks and plate of botañas.

There is of course more to say about Mérida, but that will have to wait for another time!

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